Erik Barshai

Pennies From Heaven Process

This collection was inspired by the life of Consuelo Vanderbilt, one of the Gilded Age’s most famous “dollar princesses”—wealthy American women who married impoverished European royals in exchange for titles.

The designs draw on imagery from the turn of the century through the 1920s, referencing Consuelo’s debutante season, her marriage to the Duke of Marlborough, and her later life in France. Interwoven with these historical influences is the collection’s namesake, “Pennies from Heaven”, the song made famous by Billie Holiday, which served as both literal and figurative inspiration for prints and embellishments.

Staging and Concept

Inspiration images composed of turn of the century art, fashion plates from the 1910s and 20s, and pictures of Consuello.
The staging for this presentation was inspired by a love gift Consuelo Vanderbilt received from the man she truly wished to marry—before her mother compelled her to marry the Duke of Marlborough. The gift, a simple box lined with red velvet and containing a single red rose, directly informed the design and atmosphere of the presentation.

Sketches

Pennies from Heaven sketches
Pennies from Heaven sketches

Bias Dresses

Lace bias dress with circular hemline.
Bias cut crepe satin dress with silkscreen penny motif.
White checked cotton bias dress with combo lace trims and CF rosette.
White checked cotton blouse with rosette shoulders.
White checked bias dress with cotton mesh combo and lace trim detailing.

Tailoring

Green wool satin suit with asymmetrical lapel.

Corsets and Embellishment

"Crying Bride" dress cut in oyster double face satin. Under skirt is layers of hand spliced self fringe, doubled and stitched in rows on to a cotton mesh skirt.
Nylon mesh corset with grosgrain boning channels and embellished pennies.
Bias cut off white tulle two-piece. Contrast light grey embellished feather panels cut in circles, hand sewn in a giant spiral from bottom to top.

Hair Swan

Black hair molded on top of wire formed bra. Skirt is nylon mesh with tracks of hair sewn to recreate fringe.